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Vishal Khairnar
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Gosha Rubchinskiy Relaunches His Label After Seven Years
Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy is officially making a comeback. After announcing his intentions on Instagram in February, the designer has relaunched his eponymous label, seven years after it was shuttered.
In an interview with Business of Fashion (BoF), Rubchinskiy shared that he is ready to “start all over again.” A first drop of wardrobe basics—including T-shirts, jogging bottoms, rucksacks, hoodies, and bomber jackets—is already available in his online shop. Additional pieces like jeans and coats will follow later this month.
While the designer is exploring core essentials, he has also revealed ambitions to design couture in the future. But unlike many of his peers, Rubchinskiy is not looking to re-enter the traditional Fashion Week circuit. Instead, he plans a “small world tour” across China, Japan, and the US, engaging directly with his fan base.
A New Direct-to-Consumer Approach
This relaunch marks a strategic shift, with Rubchinskiy targeting consumers directly online. However, he has not ruled out multi-brand retail collaborations or the opening of flagship boutiques in the future.
Controversial Past, New Guardrails
Rubchinskiy’s return comes after his label’s abrupt halt in 2018, following allegations of inappropriate messages to a minor during a casting process—something he and his brand have consistently denied. Speaking to BoF, he confirmed that he will now work with a dedicated casting director to oversee communications with models and agencies, ensuring greater professionalism and distance.
Financing and Collaborations
The relaunch is being funded through personal savings and support from friends, described by Rubchinskiy as a “collective endeavour.”
Since the closure of his label, the designer has held significant roles in fashion, including as head of design for Yeezy, Kanye West’s brand, until early 2025. More recently, he began collaborating with Bikkembergs, signaling his steady return to the industry.
A Second Act for a Cult Designer
First launched in 2008, Rubchinskiy’s label quickly rose to cult status, often associated with post-Soviet streetwear and worn by a global youth following. His second act promises a more measured approach—blending core essentials, cultural narrative, and global community engagement.
As his world tour and new drops roll out, the industry will be watching closely to see whether Rubchinskiy can successfully navigate both comeback and controversy.
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