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Vishal Khairnar
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Paris, France – The Dior Spring/Summer 2026 show at Paris Fashion Week was one of the season’s most anticipated moments, marking Jonathan Anderson’s debut collection for the French luxury house. Hosted at the Jardin des Tuileries, the show drew a star-studded audience and ended with a resounding standing ovation, cementing Anderson’s arrival as Dior’s new creative force.
A Set Steeped in Dior History
At the centre of the runway stood a dramatic inverted grey pyramid, setting the stage for an emotional journey. Before the first model appeared, a montage of archival Dior footage—from Christian Dior himself to Gianfranco Ferré and John Galliano—played, a symbolic nod to Anderson’s deep dive into the maison’s storied legacy.
The New Look Revisited
The show opened with a white dress inspired by Dior’s iconic New Look, which Anderson called his “blank canvas.” What followed was a bold reworking of house codes, with miniskirts emerging as the hero of the season. From canvas and frayed denim to fitted and loose silhouettes, minis were paired with tight-collared silk shirts, tailored jackets, and flowing capes—all styled with classic Dior court shoes.
Echoes of the Men’s Collection
Anderson’s first Dior womenswear show cleverly wove in elements from his recently shown men’s line. High collars with bows, long capes, and Delft Dress-inspired techniques from 1948 were shared across genders but translated differently—Bermuda shorts for men, short skirts for women. This continuity highlighted Anderson’s holistic vision of Dior as a dialogue between past and present.
Accessories Take the Spotlight
True to Dior’s commercial strength, accessories played a starring role. New bags with subtle Dior references in the handles and experimental structures made their runway debut, hinting at the house’s next big hit. For many, these inventive yet accessible designs signal Dior’s potential to broaden its audience under Anderson.
Materiality & Palette
The collection explored lace and transparency, evoking sensuality, while the colour palette leaned into light, airy shades such as sky blue and dove grey. Voluminous pleated dresses and crinoline-inspired silhouettes paid homage to Dior’s heritage while pushing it forward with modern ease.
A Star-Studded Affair
The front row was equally dazzling, with Anya Taylor-Joy, Rosamund Pike, and Jenna Ortega among the celebrities in attendance. French First Lady Brigitte Macron was spotted between Bernard and Delphine Arnault, signalling the show’s cultural and political resonance.
A Defining Moment for Dior
With his debut, Jonathan Anderson proved his ability to both honour Dior’s DNA and recode it for a new era. As he described through LVMH, it was about “decoding the language of the house to recode it.” The diversity, craftsmanship, and forward-thinking spirit of the collection won over the audience—ending in thunderous applause and a standing ovation.
Dior’s Spring/Summer 2026 may well be remembered as a pivotal moment: the dawn of Anderson’s Dior era.
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