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Vishal Khairnar
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Torishéju Dumi Expands Her Vision at Paris Fashion Week with Bold New Categories
Few designers have ascended as quickly as Torishéju founder Torishéju Dumi. Since her Paris debut in 2023 — opened by Naomi Campbell and closed by Paloma Elsesser — the London-based designer has become one of fashion’s most closely watched talents. She’s dressed Kendall Jenner for the Met Gala, won the 2025 LVMH Savoir-Faire Prize, and secured global stockists through Dover Street Market.
This week in Paris, Dumi presented her third off-schedule show, her first since winning the LVMH award. Naomi Campbell once again opened the runway, where Dumi introduced new categories including leather, denim, and knitwear, alongside her signature intricate tailoring and upcycled constructions.
Building a Global Support Network
Dumi’s trajectory has been shaped by mentorships and chance encounters. Backed early by the Sarabande Foundation and introduced to influential figures like Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and PR strategist Lucien Pagès, she quickly earned the support of industry titans. Craig Green supplied deadstock fabrics for her debut, and Sarah Burton gave her access to McQueen’s warehouse.
Her partnership with Adrian Joffe, president of Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market, has been pivotal. Dover Street locations across Europe, Asia, and the US bought her first collection sight unseen, and by 2024 she had joined the DSMP incubator, which supports cutting-edge designers with production and distribution.
Expanding the Torishéju World
This season’s collection reflected that growth: red leather skirts punctuated with cut-outs, structured denim paired with brown leather jackets, and sleek V-neck knits in monochromes. “Adrian has really opened up a whole world for me,” says Dumi. “I’m able to translate my ideas into new materials and continue to build the Torishéju world.”
Dumi now works out of the Sarabande Foundation studio, though she admits to still spending late nights creating at home. Her commitment to one collection per year reflects her philosophy: slow, deliberate growth over relentless output. “I want my shows to feel like when you haven’t seen a friend for a long time. You meet up every year, you see how they’ve grown — that’s how I want my collections to feel.”
A Future Beyond Dover Street
With momentum from the LVMH Prize and DSMP resources, Dumi is setting her sights on expanding beyond Dover Street’s seven outposts. “I definitely want to show more of my vision and collaborate with other people; I want other people in different parts of the world to see what we do. Being a woman, a woman of colour, I think it can encourage and inspire people.”
Her latest show, staged just steps from Chanel HQ on Rue Cambon, came together only days before. Sponsorship was tight, but for Dumi, the goal remained simple: “I just want the clothes to really sing. I want them to tell their story.”
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