




At the Spring/Summer 2026 show during Paris Fashion Week, Chemena Kamali, creative director of Chloé, delivered a collection that felt deeply rooted in Chloé’s heritage while pushing its design vocabulary forward.
Kamali is in her third term with Chloé. Having worked under Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller, she clearly draws on those past tenures. But this time, she plays with more structure, sharper form, and more overt references to past decades—notably the 1950s and 1980s.
Major Themes & Highlights
Vintage Florals and Pastel Palette
The collection leaned heavily on floral prints, often vintage or archival in feel. Overall romantic florals from the 1950s reimagined through modern cuts. The colours were soft: pastels, pearl yellows, muted tones that evoke a gentle spring glow.
Since prints weren’t just decorative; they anchored much of the mood of the show. When they appeared with more structured elements, they helped balance delicate with bold.
’80s Structure: Shoulders, Draping, Skinny Pants
One of the most striking shifts: a more assertive silhouette. Exaggerated shoulders, funnel-necks, sharp tailoring, dropped hems. There was more architectural discipline than in some past Chloé collections.
Skinny leg trousers made repeated appearances, sometimes under dramatic coats or layered garments. Outerwear, in particular, took on shape: coats and coatdresses with dropped waists, ruched or pleated details.
Heritage with a Twist
Kamali didn’t shy away from Chloé’s boho Romantic DNA—floating fabrics, lace, feminine ease. But she paired them with things you might not immediately expect from Chloé: angularity, structure, more pronounced volumes.
Elements like belts, dropped hems, ruching, and layering kept the collection from veering into pastiche. Therefore like Lagerfeld’s ’70s and the “Chloé girl” era of the 2000s were balanced, not overwhelming.
The High Points
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Elegance and nostalgia: There’s a comfort in Chloé’s signature romanticism, and Kamali harnessed it well. The florals, the soft palette, the lace and flowing shapes—these are Chloé at its best.
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Structure as contrast: Sharp shoulders and dropped waists brought fresh tension; they kept the collection from being one-note softness.
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Consistency with evolution: Kamali seems to want to evolve the brand without breaking it. Thus the mixture of referencing history + injecting modern shapes feels intentional.
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