




During Watches & Wonders 2025, Swiss watchmakers placed strong emphasis on jewellery watches. Gem-setting, goldsmith techniques, and ornamental stones emerged as focal points. Meanwhile, creativity and craftsmanship took centre stage. Brands experimented boldly, yet many also respected tradition.
Colour Takes the Dial
Besides gems, vibrant dials stole attention. Ornamental stone dials—meteorite, tiger’s-eye, malachite, opal—paired with gold or gem-set cases stood out. Also, bold colour palettes were visible in enamel, lacquer, and hardstone finishes. Brands used colour not just to decorate, but to define identity and mood.
Leading Names & Noteworthy Models
Some brands that drew special praise included Piaget, Chanel, Cartier, Hermès, Chopard, Van Cleef & Arpels. For example, Piaget’s Andy Warhol watch collection introduced high jewellery versions with opal and sapphires. Chanel pushed boundaries with its “J12 Bleu” in matte blue ceramic, combining colour with icon-status. Cartier revisited its Panthère and Tresse watches with diamond-paved cases and bold gem accents. Chopard’s L’Heure du Diamant produced a suite of watches with a variety of stone dials.
Resilience in Jewellery Segment
At a time when parts of the luxury watch market face softening demand, jewellery watches showed resilience. Jewellery as category remains strong. Gem-set watches seem less sensitive to cycles; they carry aesthetic and intrinsic value. Meanwhile, many houses use jewellery watches to reinforce brand prestige and creative identity.
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