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Vishal Khairnar
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Saint Laurent Winter 2025: Anthony Vaccarello Revives Power Shoulders with High-Impact Glamour
For Winter 2025, Saint Laurent declared one bold message: the bigger the shoulder, the stronger the statement. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello transformed the runway into an ode to sculptural silhouettes, as models walked a glossy black onyx oval floor wearing towering, powerful shoulders that recalled the unapologetic energy of the 1980s.
From vibrant power-suit dresses and oversized outerwear to supple leather jackets, the show was a masterclass in structure and volume. Vaccarello’s vision was rooted in construction, not ornamentation. “Instead of speaking through ornament or padding, fabrics and precise construction shape the garments. Pure forms and volumes are derived from construction and cut,” read the show notes.
Color brought an added punch—tangerine jackets with plum belts, deep fuchsia tailoring, and grass-green minis with bejeweled collars and black gloves all celebrated YSL’s iconic palette in hyper-saturated tones. Bella Hadid’s runway moment in navy guipure lace drew huge buzz, marking her only catwalk appearance of the season. Meanwhile, the front row was just as legendary, with supermodel Linda Evangelista making a striking entrance in a Saint Laurent suit that mixed mobster power with Parisian chic.
Texture and contrast also played key roles: animal- and floral-print dresses coated in silicone, burnt sienna lace, and sporty paneling added subversive edge. Accessories leaned rock ‘n’ roll, with chunky jewelry and sunglasses echoing Yves Saint Laurent’s love for rock crystal, believed to be his lucky stone.
Closing looks elevated the drama: floor-sweeping skirts with ballroom volume, paired with bustier tops, oversized sweaters, and leather jackets, fused old YSL elegance with Vaccarello’s modern irreverence. Structural bows and oversized cargo pockets ensured these grand gowns were far from traditional princess fantasy.
By choosing to close out Paris Fashion Week 2025, Vaccarello underscored Saint Laurent’s enduring power to own the spotlight. These clothes weren’t just fashion—they were a declaration. Strong, uncompromising, and space-commanding, they embodied what it means to dress with presence in today’s world.
