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Vishal Khairnar
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Romantic Gowns, Dramatic Tailoring: Harrods’ Buying Director on London Fashion Week SS26
London, UK – With London Fashion Week SS26 wrapped, industry eyes turn to buyers as they assess collections and spot emerging trends. Simon Longland, director of buying for fashion at Harrods, shared his highlights, insights on must-have items, and thoughts on the city’s evolving position on the global fashion calendar.
Standout Collections
For Longland, the top collections came from Erdem and Roksanda, both celebrating their 20th anniversaries this season.
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Roksanda revisited her archives with striking results: the Margot dress from SS12 returned in vibrant orange and blue duchesse satin, while the Cataline dress from AW22 reappeared in painterly prints. Longland praised the collection as “a true celebration of her signature aesthetic, defined by dramatic tailoring and elegant gowns.”
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Erdem drew inspiration from Hélène Smith, a 19th-century Swiss medium who claimed past lives as a member of the French court and an Indian princess. This imaginative lens allowed Erdem to explore contradictions between history and fantasy, crafting expressive, feminine silhouettes.
Burberry’s Youthful Reinvention
Heritage brand Burberry sparked attention by aligning with a younger, festival-inspired clientele while retaining its British identity. Jackets, trenches, and leather formed the backbone of the collection, lending “structure, attitude, and a modern edge,” Longland noted. He added: “It wasn’t simply about repeating house codes, but about reinterpreting them for today’s culture.”
Must-Haves and Key Trends
Longland emphasized London’s diverse, refusal-to-conform aesthetic this season. Standout items included:
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Roksanda’s statement gowns
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Refined tailoring from Emilia Wickstead
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Romantic, wearable separates from Simone Rocha
This mix underscored London’s strength as a city thriving on individuality over homogenized trends.
On Emerging Designers
Longland highlighted Patrick McDowell and Priya Ahluwalia as designers to watch. Ahluwalia’s collection Affinity examined expressions of love across cultures and generations, referencing everything from Bollywood romances to Shakespearean tales and R&B ballads. Longland stressed the importance of observing creativity at its early stages to foster future collaborations.
London’s Unique Proposition
Under British Fashion Council CEO Laura Weir, LFW is undergoing a transition, reinforcing London as a stage for both established British names and international designers. Longland concluded:
“What defines London is its refusal to be confined to one aesthetic – it is the diversity and vibrancy of its designers that continues to make it a global capital for fashion.”
