Assam-based fashion designer Sanjukta Dutta says her work begins with “emotion — and that emotion is Assam.” In her latest collection, titled “Gadhuli – The Twilight”, she made this very literal by paying homage to the late Assamese icon Zubeen Garg — not simply through inspired silhouettes, but by weaving his portrait and his song-lyrics into the fabric of the garments.
Opening the show, a hand-woven saree carried Zubeen Garg’s image and words, instantly turning fashion into memory, craft into cultural tribute.
Merging tradition with reinterpretation
Dutta’s design philosophy embraces Assam’s handloom heritage: from Pat silk, Eri, Muga to traditional mekhela chador set-ups. With “Gadhuli”, she interprets the mekhela-chador form alongside saris, structured skirts, dhoti silhouettes — using black, maroon and twilight-hued tones to evoke the moment between day and night.
The tribute to Zubeen Garg is woven right into this narrative:
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Thus portrait + lyrics saree was a visual anchor of the collection.
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Overall fabric was hand-woven by Assam’s weavers, collaborating directly with Dutta.
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A live violin performance by Sunita Bhuyan marked a related tribute to another musical legend, embedding the show in multisensory culture.
Why this matters
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Cultural preservation: Dutta isn’t just designing garments; she’s putting Assam’s textile heritage in the spotlight and giving it global visibility.
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Emotional storytelling: Therefore a tribute to Zubeen Garg elevates the fashion collection into an emotional and cultural statement — a blending of art, memory and craft.
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Craft-to-catwalk synergy: By working from loom to runway and embedding real cultural icons, the collection adds authenticity that extends beyond surface trend
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