




Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla (AJSK) need little introduction. For nearly 40 years, they have shaped Indian couture. They elevated craft. They redefined glamour. According to a recent Elle India feature by Anamm Inamdar, their career blends revival and reinvention.
Here’s a deep look into their journey, creative approach, and lasting impact.
Humble Origins, Big Dreams
They began in 1986 in Mumbai. With Rs. 1 lakh from their parents, they launched their first collection. Their boutique, Mata Hari in Juhu, was theatrical. Peach-toned walls, mirrored alcoves, a single round dressing room—all signs of something different.
Neither had formal training. Meditation of fabrics and embroidery filled their education instead. Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla taught themselves—through textile studies, assisting designers, and sheer perseverance.
Creative Opposites, Shared Vision
Jani is introspective. Khosla is bold. But together, they form creative synergy. Their differences are not hindrances—they’re fuel. They call their relationship “alchemy.” Their clashes become catalysts.
This balance allows them to stay fresh. Their artistry is born from dialogue—between restraint and excess, tradition and fantasy. The result: maximalism with purpose.
Reviving Craft & Reinventing Couture
Craft is central to their work. Especially when it comes to techniques that nearly faded away. For example, chikankari from Lucknow. In the early ’90s, they were alarmed by how mediocre fabrics, crude motifs, and poor tools were degrading its tradition.
They invested in research. They trained artisans. Therefore reintroduced fine fabrics like georgette and chiffon into chikankari.
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